Wednesday 8th April. This year’s RIBI Conference
was to be held in Belfast. The DG and I have never been to Belfast before, so
we were looking forward to what the city, and Northern Ireland as a whole had
to offer. Our plan was to attend the Conference from Thursday to Sunday, then
travel up to the North Antrim coast for a few days, before travelling to the
Republic of Ireland to meet up with my cousin Padraig in Sligo. During this
time the DG was to celebrate a significant birthday, although chivalry prevents
me from mentioning which one. We were travelling in our new car, which was an
adventure in itself, as neither of us understands how to operate everything in
it, and the Stop / Start technology is rather an acquired taste.
The new car
Obviously I am very aware of the turbulent recent history of
the Province and was wondering how welcome an Englishman would be in this city,
and a Catholic one at that. Also, I wondered whether our car, with its UK
number plates, would receive unwelcome attention. So it was with some trepidation that we left
home on the Wednesday to head for Birkenhead, where we were booked on to the
overnight ferry to Belfast. Although we were only going for 10 days, the car
was loaded almost to the gunnels with luggage (a little space was left for
shopping, as we always seem to come home with more than we start with). It is
of course necessary to bring lots of clothing, because there would be formal
evenings to attend, clothes to be worn during daytimes in the Conference then
maybe a change of clothes in the evening. After the Conference we would be
touring, and at this time of year the weather can be hot, cold, windy or wet
(sometimes all in the same day) so all eventualities had to be catered for. I
am, of course, referring to the DG here, as I prefer to bring just what I
intend wearing regardless of the weather.
Birkenhead - Belfast ferry
We left home quite early on Wednesday morning, and stopped
at a Little Chef near Oxford for an Olympic Breakfast. This is our usual
routine when heading off for distant destinations in the UK. In the past, there
used to be a transport café at the top of our road called Cheffreys, and we
would stop there for the best ever cooked breakfast when going out for the day.
Sadly, Cheffreys is long gone, and we now rely on Little Chef. Traffic was
surprisingly heavy on the M40 and after our breakfast stop it got heavier.
Apart from a brief respite on the M6 Toll, which is never busy, we were in
traffic for most of the journey. It was probably not, therefore, a good idea
for me to experiment with the Cruise Control switch in the car. Some people I
know swear by it, and use it constantly, but I am more inclined to swear at it.
I have never braked so heavily, and so often, as I did on that journey.
M6 Toll Road
We were booked on to the overnight ferry from Birkenhead to
Belfast and had booked a cabin for the 8
hour crossing, which was due to leave at 10.30 p.m. As Birkenhead is just across the Mersey from
Liverpool, we thought we would spend some time in Liverpool before embarkation.
When driving into a city that you are
unfamiliar with, the Sat Nav really comes into its own, and it brought us
safely to the Albert Dock area of the city in mid-afternoon. The Albert Dock is
a place we last visited about 25 years ago, when we arrived by ferry from
Seacombe. At that time regeneration had just begun in the Albert Dock area and
I remember that the area looked pretty desolate. However the Tate Gallery had
recently opened, as a symbol of good times to come.
'Ferry cross the Mersey' - a little more colourful than last time I came
What a change there has been since then. Albert Dock is a vibrant, fun place, full of
Restaurants, cafes and up-market shops.
It is very smart and modern, and the juxtaposition (this one of the DG’s
words, not mine) of old and new architecture is striking. If you look in one
direction along the river front you can see the famous Liver Birds atop the
Royal Liver Building. These birds are the symbol of Liverpool, and I couldn’t
help noticing that they are well tied down with cables to prevent the calamity of them falling off. Looking the other way the most noticeable
building is the huge Echo Arena, which is shaped like a ship. Liverpool’s
Anglican Cathedral is not far away, and I’m sure the Metropolitan Cathedral is
also close, although I couldn’t see it from Albert Dock.
Royal Liver building, with Liver birds perched on top
We were walking around the dock in the sunshine of a warmer
than usual day at this time of year when who should walk past us than one of
the DG’s colleagues, Martin Williams and his wife Wendy. Martin is DG of a
District in Kent. He and Wendy had had the same idea as us in spending the
afternoon in Liverpool before boarding the ferry to Belfast. They had arrived
by train, making good use of Senior Rail card discounts (we must start doing
that) and left their luggage at the station. We enjoyed a coffee together at
the Tate café and then went for a stroll over to the nearby shopping mall,
called Liverpool 1. Presumably it is called this because of the Post Code it is
situated in. Whilst strolling through
the shopping centre, we came across a good example of Scouse humour. Everton
Football Club have a shop in the mall, obviously for selling their merchandise,
and the shop is named Everton 2. They must take delight in their address being
Everton 2 Liverpool 1.
Everton 2 Liverpool 1
We had dinner in one of Jamie Oliver’s establishments,
Jamie’s Italian. It had a good lively atmosphere and the staff seemed
knowledgeable. I never used to be a great fan of Jamie Oliver, as his cookery
shows were full of flashy camerawork and not enough emphasis (for me) on how to
cook the dish. However I really enjoyed his series on half-hour meals, because
he simply stood in front of camera and showed you how to cook the food, just
how I like a cookery programme to be. One thing I am less happy about, however,
is his liking for dishing up food on wooden platters. Indeed, many dishes in
the Restaurant were served up on wooden boards. This doesn’t strike me as being
very hygienic. Surely it is much more difficult to thoroughly clean a wooden
board than a plate. I am sure his Restaurants have up-to-the minute procedures
to ensure that wooden platters are thoroughly sterilised before being re-used,
but people watching his shows in their homes may not have the same know-how or
equipment, which could result in food poisoning.
The DG, Martin, Wendy, me
Aside from the above whinge, I found the meal to be very
enjoyable and reasonably-priced. I was also relieved that the soup came in a
bowl. The four of us had a convivial evening before going our separate ways
(the DG and I to the Car Park, Martin and Wendy to the station) to head off to
the Belfast ferry. The quickest route from here was obviously through the
Birkenhead tunnel under the river, and we duly put the co-ordinates into the
Sat nav, which immediately recognised our destination and started to lead us
there. All was going well, until I noticed that we had passed the entrance to
the tunnel and were heading out of the city. I also saw that the Sat nav
estimated over an hour for the journey, which was 60 miles.
Birkenhead tunnel
Clearly our sat nav did not realise there was a tunnel,and
was trying to take us overland to the Wirral so I decided to disobey Jane (the
voice of our sat nav) and head back towards the tunnel. She didn’t like it, and
continued to scold us, telling us to turn around until I turned her off. We
were soon in the tunnel heading under the Mersey. Now, I reckon that the Mersey
is about 400 yards wide at this point, maybe 600 yards. The tunnel, however
seemed to go on and on. I would estimate that we travelled for a good couple of
miles before emerging at the other side, then had another mile journey back to
the ferry terminal. No doubt there is a good reason for this, but I couldn’t
help thinking that it must have cost an enormous amount of money to build this
tunnel, which was about 1.5 miles longer than it needed to be.
Retro - Ice cream vans at Albert Dock
We arrived in good time at the Port, and were one of the
first vehicles to be loaded, as we needed to be parked near to the lift going
up from the Car Deck. Check-in was friendly and low key. We discovered that it
was as well we arrived early, because departure
time had been brought forward to 10.00 p.m. without us knowing. Once on board, we planned on retiring to bed
early making the most of having a bed for the night. The ferry only seemed
about half full, and there was plenty of room in the passenger lounge where we
got ourselves a drink. Martin and Wendy had tickets for the executive lounge,
so they were probably drinking champagne accompanied by luxury foods in comfort,
whilst we queued for a hot chocolate and an oatcake in the main lounge. I did
ask Martin earlier if he could see his way to bringing some canapes out to us,
but we never saw him so assumed that he must have been stopped at the door and
had them confiscated.
Albert Dock
I went up on deck to observe the ferry leaving, and it was
interesting to see it reverse across the Mersey as it left its moorings. We
were almost back at Albert Dock before
the ship turned and made its way down the river. On a more worrying note, I heard a couple of
car alarms sounding from the car deck, and was worried whether one of them
might be mine. I wasn’t allowed down to the car deck to check, as it is out of
bounds when the ferry is moving. The woman at the Customer Services desk said I
should have disabled my car alarm before leaving it. That’s all very well, but
nothing in the instructions said I should do that, and apart from that I didn’t
have a clue how to disable the alarm. I decided that there was nothing I could
do about it so tried to forget about it until the morning.
Outside the Maritime Museum
Our accessible cabin had bunk beds, which I don’t think I
have slept in since I was about 16 years old. The problem for the DG was that
her bunk (the bottom one, of course) had so many mobility aids in the form of
handles attached to the bottom of the bed above her, that she could hardly move
once she was in, and consequently she hardly slept a wink all night. I didn’t
fare much better, as the ship’s engines, which appeared to be directly under
our cabin seemed very noisy, and furthermore I was worried about getting up at
5.00 in the morning to get off the boat. Consequently I slept only fitfully
during the night, worrying about whether my car would have a flat battery in
the morning, and waking up constantly to check the time.
Fab account. As an ex scouser now living in Nr Ireland, your story really resonated with me. A trip down my memory lane. Thank you.
ReplyDeleteThanks for your kind comments Benbo. It was a trip we will definitely be doing again!
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