Thursday, 26 November 2015

City of London Walk

On Saturday 17th October a group of explorers from the Rotary Club went on a guided tour of the City of London, led by our own Pauline Hedges. Pauline had a long career in the finance sector, and for much of the time she was based in the Square Mile, as a result of which she has an encyclopaedic knowledge of the City and its’ institutions.

City of London

We started out at Shepperton Station, which is about a 50 minute journey from Waterloo. On it’s way to London the train passes through 17 stations – and stops at every one! If only a few of them could be missed out, the journey would be so much more enjoyable, and of course quicker. I have always enjoyed train travel (apart from my commuting days) and I always get a thrill when we go charging through a station without stopping. Unfortunately that wasn’t going to happen today.

Shepperton Station

I thought it would be a good idea to take advantage of the Group Discounts available for rail travel these days. Having done a deal of  research, I came to the view that discounts could be significant, with the greater the number of travellers, the greater the discount. My plan turned out to be more complicated than I expected. The thing about Group Travel Discounts is that the whole group has to travel there and back together. With our group, some planned to stay in London for lunch, and others would come straight home. Some had other plans in London after our tour. To further complicate things, some were in possession of Senior Rail cards, which entitled them to discounts anyway. In the end, just 6 of us bought a Group Travel card, and the other 11 made their own arrangements.  Does anyone else find that organising the simplest  trip can be unexpectedly troublesome?

Our train arrived on time, and amazingly, so did our 17 travellers, and off we went to Waterloo.  The IPDG and I were greeted there by the very same man who assisted us on our last trip to Waterloo, about 6 months ago. He was an extraordinarily helpful and cheerful Irishman called Rod, who reckons that he is British Rail’s oldest employee, having worked at Waterloo for 59 years.  It must be his job to help wheelchair users with ramps. Incidentally, he directed the IPDG to an accessible toilet behind the station which was free, rather than the 30p charge elsewhere in the station.

Oldest employee? He's fitter than most and very helpful

From Waterloo, most of our party continued their journey on the Waterloo-City line, but in the absence of lifts down to the Underground station, 4 of us went by taxi. In doing this, I made an amazing discovery, many London cabs have  foldaway wheelchair ramps. London is becoming increasingly wheelchair friendly, with nearly all buses, and now also black cabs being accessible.

                                                  Black cab with ramp

It wasn’t long before we all met up again at the RoyalExchange, across the road from the Bank of England. The Royal Exchange was founded as a Centre of Banking and Commerce in the 16th Century. Outside it is a bronze statue of the Duke of Wellington, cast from enemy cannons captured during Wellington's many foreign campaigns.

                                                        Outside the Royal Exchange (Pauline looking pretty in pink)

Pauline quickly got into her stride, explaining the history of the various buildings around us, and interesting facts about them, including something I had never noticed before, which was that the Bank of England has no ground floor windows. I think she said it was a security feature. The tour continued up Cornhill, so named because it was actually a hill, which once comprised cornfields.

                                          Risque statues adorn the Bank of England

From Cornhill we explored some remarkable alleyways where we saw ancient buildings and churches, such as St Michaels in Cornhill, which was rebuilt by Sir Christopher Wren in the 17th Century after the original was destroyed in the Great Fire of London.  Before long, we arrived at the beautifully preserved Leadenhall market. This is a beautifully preserved Victorian Market, with high ornate glass ceilings. It has been tastefully transformed into a modern retail centre. Within the Leadenhall arcade we passed a charity stall selling home made cakes very cheaply, and I couldn’t resist some bread pudding. I have always been a great lover of this particular tray-baked cake, although no-one makes it as well as my mum used to.

                                                          St Michaels in Cornhill

Leadenhall Market

We headed onwards along some very quiet and ancient alleyways, found in abundance in the City, and passed many historical sites as we headed towards the Monument. This building commemorates the Fire of London in 1666, and was my favourite site in London as a small boy. I can remember  that on a couple of occasions I came to London with 4 school friends. We were no more than 8 or 9 years old, but we got ourselves Red Rover tickets (these cost 5 shillings and gave you unlimited travel on red London buses for a day) and found our way from our homes in Staines to the City where the highlight of our day was to climb the 345 stairs of the Monument and enjoy the view from the top. Somehow I don’t think today’s kids would be allowed to have an adventure like that.

The Monument

Words of wisdom from Pauline

Pauline was a fount of information. Throughout our walk, she told us about the history of the area, including many humorous  stories and anecdotes, many from her own experience, about the places we saw. I was particularly fascinated by the George & Vulture, a  400 year old pub which featured in one of my favourite  Dickens books, The Pickwick Papers . Continuing the Dickens theme, we also visited London’s only raised churchyard  (I can’t remember its name) which featured in another Dickens novel (I can’t remember which).

Dickensian pub

Another City pub....

.....And another

We didn’t only admire ancient buildings. There were many modern gems to admire, including the  Shard, the Cheese Grater, the Gherkin and the Walkie Talkie. It’s funny how I know the nicknames to these buildings, but not their real purpose. The juxtaposition of modern architecture alongside ancient buildings was remarkable, one of the most striking examples was seeing the ultra modern Lloyds building alongside the beautiful arcades of Leadenhall Market.

                                                                                                The Shard




As we neared the end of our tour we walked  along Lombard Street, in the heart of the Banking area. Once upon a time this street was home to the Head Offices of many of our largest banks, (including my former employers Barclays at no. 54)  although many of them have now moved elsewhere. Pauline herself was based at No 10 Lombard Street for many years, and as she modestly says there was more than one influential woman living at No 10 during the 1980s.

The Grasshopper - Symbol of Martins Bank in Lombard Street

The guided walk was an unqualified success, and we greatly appreciated Pauline sharing some of her extensive knowledge of London with us in such an entertaining way. I have visited the City of London many times over the years, but Pauline took us to places I had never seen before. A number of us thought we would stay in the City for lunch, but discovered that at weekends nearly all cafes, restaurants and pubs in the Square Mile are closed. So we made our way back to Waterloo, and strolled down to the South Bank, where we rounded off an enjoyable visit with some traditional  London fare, in the form of a pizza.


South Bank 

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